Debunking Natural Hair Myths Backed By Science

Photo by Alieza Rizvie on Unsplash

As a hair blogger, I make it a point to stay up to date on all the trends revolving around the curly hair community. While not all the advice found on the internet is backed by science, I still find many people believe in the tips recited by the natural hair community as if it is a religion. 

I have been part of a society that believed what I read despite not being backed up by science or professionals. Even so, some stylists repeated those same tips as if it were true. It got me thinking about what is actually myth and fiction regarding haircare. This thought led to a small series I plan to implement on my blog. 

Myths About Natural Hair

A simple discussion with a stylist or professional who can back up their advice with science is really all you need. However, I have found that some professionals repeat the same rapport echoed throughout the hair community for years. I began my journey to discover what is fact and fiction by interviewing Stuart Bane. Stuart is a Master Color Expert with over 20 years of experience in the hair industry. 

Stuart was kind enough to answer some of my most pressing questions while also backing up his points with, that’s right, you guessed it, science!

Can you successfully dye kinky curly hair without damaging it?

Yes, you can! Sometimes, the cosmetic care elements in modern professional hair colors can actually make your natural hair feel better. That being said, lightening textured hair is a different ball game.

Bleach, in particular, is an erosive product that will affect the hair structure and curl pattern, as it removes the natural pigment known as melanin. Over time, it can diminish the hair’s natural protein (keratin). This can result in your hair losing its elasticity, which results in it becoming drier and more brittle.

Is it true that your hair changes within 2-7 years? Can that affect how you should care for it as you age? 

The ‘2-7 year change’ originates from your hair growth life cycle, consisting of 3 different stages: anagen, catagen, and telogen. Anagen is where your hair is actively growing, Catagen, which is also known as the resting stage, sees hair grow very slowly or completely, and lastly, the telogen stage.

Although it can sometimes take up to 4 months, the Telogen stage is where the life cycle of the hair becomes completely dormant and will finally shed. For the first few cycles, the anagen stage is longer, hence the belief that it takes seven years, but over time, this growing stage becomes shorter and shorter.

It is also important to remember that your hair will change frequently due to multiple factors such as stress, diet, and hormones - I advise my clients to switch up their hair care to suit whatever stage or impacts are present. 

Hair generally becomes thinner, drier, and more brittle as we age, and there are some amazing products available now which can address this. A favorite of mine is the K18 Leave in Molecular Hair Mask. It’s a lightweight treatment that works on the internal peptide chain within the hair, strengthening it and making it more resilient to damage. With this in mind, it can also help restore lost curl patterns from damaged hair. 

What are some hair myths you are tired of seeing being passed around on social media?

There are so many hair myths! Many believe that their hair can become “used” to a certain type of shampoo and conditioner. This isn’t necessarily true, as (mentioned above) your hair is frequently changing. 

Other myths such as clean beauty or clean hair products are better for your hair are absolutely false. Recent trends suggest that “free-from” products are the premium choice, but this isn’t necessarily true either.

Haircare and color is down to chemistry, and colors will require certain ingredients to remain effective, much like if something is said to be sugar-free, you might assume it is better for you. However, that item will then require a sugar substitute, often a chemical that might be worse for you - this is also the case with hair color. These claims are often a marketing ploy that won’t necessarily benefit your hair or hair color. 

What scientific journals or processes do you use to educate your clients about hair care? 

A large part of educating my clients on hair care comes down to learning more about their own experience with it. Generally, clients will have had trouble with their hair to some capacity, and rather than scientific journals, I get clients to really look, feel, and notice their hair and any changes. This helps identify any problem areas such as dryness, scalp issues, and loss of density or breakage to find something that works for them. 

For example, if clients feel that their hair is losing density, I’ll get them to assess precisely where from. Hair can break from both the scalp or through mids and ends, which is commonly when hair breaks through damage. 

To assess if a client's hair is damaged, we will do a simple test of stretching a single damp hair to see whether it stretches and returns (healthy) or not, which will often mean it’s damaged.

I also encourage clients to run their fingers down a single hair strand to feel for bumps. These are raised or broken cuticles or the outside protective layer of the hair shaft, which can illustrate how porous, frizzy, or to what extent the hair is damaged.  

Once clients truly understand their hair type, it becomes easier to build a hair care regime together. People are often oblivious to details of their natural hair texture or how to handle it.

I am very thankful to Stuart for taking the time to educate me and my wonderful readers on haircare. You can find more about Stuart and what he does at https://www.stuartbanecolour.com/ and you can also find him on instagram @stuartbanecolour.

Did you know any of this information? If you had the chance to throw in your questions regarding haircare myths floating around on the internet, what would you ask? 

About Stuart Bane

Hailing from the UK and with over 20 years of experience in the hair industry, Stuart Bane has had an extensive career to date. As an accredited Master Colour Expert and platform artist for global color manufacturers, Stuart has shared his knowledge internationally, including in Dubai, Moscow, New York, London, and Beijing.

Now permanently based in Sydney, Australia, Stuart has become the go-to colorist for a long list of local celebrities, including Pia Miller and Jackie 'O' Henderson, and whose handy-work has appeared in major fashion publications such as Elle, Marie Claire, and Grazia. Stuart went freelance in 2021 with a bid to grow creatively and a vision to keep his education authentic and accessible to all. Stuart's lessons provide students with quick, commercial techniques which translate his editorial expertise to salon-friendly services and most importantly - "seriously sexy hair coloring." 

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